Within the sleepy villages of Tamil Nadu, there is a treasure of immense wealth left behind by the Chettiars which are now the proud centrepieces of this state.
In the streets of Karaikudi, Athangudi and other villages between the 1850s and 1950s, the Chettiars created fort-like mansions so exquisite that today they stand as fine examples of the highest pinnacle of architecture. The community were traders during the British era and they sailed with both Indian and British fleets to countries in Southeast Asia, like Indonesia, Malaysia and Burma. They were an important link for local trade which let them flourish and build a wealthy business. Their prosperity gave birth to these gorgeous mansions that showcased their success, prowess and culture.
With great business acumen and polished taste, these grand homes were built with Burma teak, floorings graced with Italian marble, Moroccan chandeliers and French touches, all reminding one of the glorious past of the Chettiars. They blend the Indian and European design beautifully.
What stands out is the similar layout of all the mansions. Open courtyards held by intricate beams to welcome guests, tall ceilings with detailed frescos, huge wedding banquet spaces where one can almost imagine the pomp and vibrance of the ceremony, elaborate carvings of deities, women’s quarters with bright hammocks where they put their babies to sleep with lullabies and spacious kitchens to feed the family and the guests.
All of the 10,000 or more of the Chettiar homes left in the region tell a fascinating story. These palatial houses were built keeping in mind the arid weather and the large courtyards helped to cool the house and provide the right amount of light, shade and air. The sloping roofs aided to collect water to be used for the household chores.
Today, the region that holds these mansions is called Chettinad, and there are around 37 villages that have these ornate manors lined up on streets. The community left to gain roots in other parts of the world, hence some homes are looked after by caretakers, some have been converted into boutique hotels and some lie abandoned hiding mysteries within its walls.